Here, we had our first encounter with the long queues at the entry (we had escaped on the first day for Hagia Sophia). Still not too bad, 30 minutes of wait time.
With a few palaces within the city where I was born and brought up, most of them now converted into hotels, I was not sure if Topkapi would hold our interest much. We went there following the 'completeness theorem of tourism' --- it was a good decision ! Topkapi palace was not just a palace but a palace-complex, practically a mini-city. The layout of the palace with 4 courtyards from the time of Mehmet the Fatih, has remained mostly unchanged. The various building have been added, replaced or restored through the time till the royal family moved to the Dolmabache Palace in 1856 AD.
The palace compound has a series of courtyards, each more protected than the preceding one, each with a large number of small pavilions. The outermost (first) was the court of Janissaries (army) with Hagia Irene, which was part of the earlier Byzantine palace, used as the armory. The army paraded here and on special occasions, public was given access to this court.
The second court had the buildings for royal administrative functions including that for the meetings of the ministers. The Sultan eves-dropped on these meeting through a grill that opened into the Harem. Today this building houses the clock collection of the sultans.
The family of the Sultan lived in the Harem. Besides the living quarters, this is where the education of the children of the family was undertaken along with education of arts and religion. Special suites were reserved for the mother of Sultan and his favorite wife / concubines. It also had schools, mosques, baths along-with special pavilions and courtyards for family functions. The baths were particularly ornate with running water and gold detailing.
Sultans personal chambers, baths, pavilions and courtyard also formed a part of the Harem. These chambers had huge carpets, elaborately decorated walls, canopies and thrones. The walls were covered with blue Iznik tiles. The Harem was guarded in past by black eunuchs and no person from outside was allowed access here.
Courtyard from the Harem had beautiful view of the Galata Tower on the other side of The Golden Horn.
The Third court had the Royal Library and Imperial Treasury which today holds exhibits of the most amazing jewels including the 67 carat white diamond. Very beautiful gems formed a part of the this treasury some of which were spoils of various wars and some gifted by their vassal. Also on exhibit are the holy relics of Prophet Mohamed.
Trust the Arabians to have yet another option of a chess board. The chess pieces were crystal but the board was breathtaking inlay work. Attaching a collage of some more pieces that I was intrigued with..
The fourth court has the courtyards and personal chambers of the emperor itself. It has elaborately decorated marble pavilion which offer beautiful views of the Bosphorus.
After the Topkapi, we went to Dolmabache Palace. Taking pictures inside the palace is forbidden. But I think it was not really a loss. Unlike Topkapi palace, Dolmabache palace could be plucked from Istanbul and put anywhere in Europe and you will find nothing amiss. Though the private marina for special guests was rather remarkable.
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