Ephesus: The Port City?

 

Our next stop was Kusadasi, a port city south of Izmir. Kusadasi was our base for visiting the two Greek / Roman ancient cities of Ephesus and Hieropolis and of course the beautiful terraces of Pammukale. Ephesus was just inland from Kusadasi, we took a city taxi to go there.

The region around Ephesus has been populated since 3000 BC, by Hittites who had ruled parts of lower Egypt for a short time.  It became famous as a port city which was earlier ruled by Greeks and than by Romans.  Yet, it was a few kilometers inland. The whole area between Ephesus and the sea was actually a bay with the Menderes river flowing into it. Over time, the silt carried by the river swamped the bay. The whole city had to be moved closer to the unblocked part of the bay to keep the port for trading.

Being a prosperous port city with a population of about 250 thousand, it was coveted by many kingdoms.  Many earthquakes and invasions had weakened the city, but it rose again, and again. Romans took control of the city in 140 BC and even made it the capital of Asia minor. Over the years, when the port was blocked again due to silt, they dredged a canal through to enable ships could come up to the city. Ultimately, the port was completely blocked and Ephesus was abandoned. Ever practical Romans stripped much of the city to use the stones elsewhere. The hippodrome vanished completely in the process, yet much still remains to make the ancient city of Ephesus very interesting.

We took a taxi to the upper gate of the ancient city since that is at a higher level, making it easier for us to walk down. No queues here! Most of the group tours were  people from the cruise with "organised" tours, leaving the windows free for walk-in tourists. Great!

Even 2000 years back, this city had piped water flowing into the houses, obviously the houses of the prosperous people, but the concept existed. The ruins have both Greek and Roman influences. I assume that the more decorated column capitals are Greek and the more practical ones are Roman :).  The most remarkable site in Ephesus is the terrace houses. They are houses which were meant for the wealthy. They had indoor plumbing ( terracotta pipes are existing at the junction of walls) and some of the most beautiful mosaics. It was not easy for our old knees to climb all the scaffolding to the top, but the lovely mosaics on the floor of these houses kept us going. These houses are still being excavated.... here are some mosaic photographs.

Besides the huge stadium, Ephesus had a vibrant market which dealt in the goods that came by the sea, a library attributed to Celcus ( Greek period)  which today only has a two level facade with lovely statues of Greek Goddess. There are other interesting sites like the temple of Hardin, the Odeon where the administrators of the city met, public latrines and ruins of a pleasure house.

We visited the temple of Artemis (the patron goddess of the city since ancient times also respected by the Greeks) the last.  In course of time, it was destroyed multiple times but was rebuilt better each time. The last one built was considered one of the ancient wonders of world. 

 

 

 

Today, just a lone column made by piling random pieces, is standing at the site of the temple. Most of the marble structures were used to make St.John church a few kilometers away. On the top of that column was a mighty nest of a migratory stork. "Four chicks", the only guide cum photographer there told us very proudly. Artemis was the local goddess of fertility after all :-), and the replica as a statue can be seen in the picture on the right.

 

June 06, 2024

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